Cholatse
Gokyo
It’s the sixth day of our walk to Cholatse base camp, we’re intentionally taking the long - and scenic - way so that we have more time to acclimatize. So far we’ve walked 27 miles from Lukla to Gokyo. Along the way, we’ve gained 12,000 feet of elevation. The trek has been stunning, even magical at times. It’s such a joy to be back in the Khumbu, and to be trekking a slightly different path than the one I took to Everest in 2016. I’m struck by how much development has taken place since then. It’s not uncommon now to find teahouses with hot showers and toilets that flush.
More than the changes in this valley, I am grateful for our small team. We’re all completely dedicated to the cause of elevating women and maintaining a supportive, fun team. I don’t feel any of the pressure or stress that I did the last time I was here. I know that in addition to the team, that’s due largely a change in my mindset. We’re all very conscious of including our incredibly strong porters in meals and cheering them on when our paths cross on the trail. It’s especially rewarding when we come across another team that comments on the incredible female porter team that they just passed!
We got out first view of Cholatse a couple of days ago. And today when we hiked up 18,000 foot Gokyo Ri we could see most of the climbing route, and through binoculars were able to see three climbers high on the route. Other climbers on the route is a welcome sign, it means that conditions are good. Fingers crossed that they were able to summit and that the incredibly nice weather that we’ve enjoyed for the past week will stick around for another week. I know that the route always looks more daunting from a distance, but whew! does it look steep!
The plan is to walk for about 3 hours tomorrow morning to Cholatse base camp, we’ll arrive on November 1st. We have plans for a Lama to join us on the 2nd for a puja ceremony to bless our climb and ask for safe passage on the mountain. After that, we’ll be ready to climb whenever the mountain is!
So Much Love in Namche
Everything about today felt special. First, waking up under a pile of warm blankets, looking outside the teahouse window to see Namche's stone buildings, neatly terraced and winding in rows toward the east. Then looking up to see towers of steep, snow covered mountains.
The highlight was sharing breakfast with Pasang Lhamu and Nima Doma and talking about why we started climbing, our reasons as varied as our backgrounds: to prove our capability, to mourn the death of a husband who died on Everest. We've given ourselves permission to cry, lots. The feeling of this expedition is different from any other, my heart is full with love and gratitude for these women and what they bring to climbing, their families and their communities, and I can't imagine climbing any other way.
Also memorable today, Hilde, Cokie and I wandered into the monastery next to the Zamling Lodge. As we were taking in the ornate carvings and wall of prayer books, the Lama greeted us. A round, jovial man wearing a red LL Bean down vest over his robes. His name was Jambu, and he knew about our expedition from …. wait for it … Facebook!! He offered us a blessing for "long life, healthy life, and safety on Cholatse." Followed by a huge, hearty hug.
The team!
I started climbing mountains bot because I thought it would be fun or even challenging. I started climbing mountains to prove myself. It took me a long time - and lots of therapy - to scratch that itch. And, I don’t always get it right. My ego still hurts when someone passes me as I’m slogging up a steep slope.
My reason for climbing and being in the mountains has evolved, though. And, now what’s most important to me is to share what I’ve learned in these wild places and to help others achieve their goals. I get to do that every day through my company, Alpine Athletics. And, with this all-women’s climb of Cholatse I also get to elevate Nepali women through education.
Education is the foundation of everything that I’ve accomplished. I feel fortunate that I knew that even as a kid and that I set my aspirations on college even though no one in my family held a college degree.
Through Tsering’s Fund, my team and I have raised funds to provide education for 18 young Nepali women - and counting! These are young women who otherwise might have been trafficked.
This Cholatse climb is already special (and we haven’t even left Kathmandu) because it feels so much bigger than me and so much more important.
Thanks for following along!
About Cholatse
Cholatse is a 21,130 foot (6,440 meter) peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal, the same region that hosts Everest. It’s usually climbed by just a few teams each year which is part of its attraction. It’s southwest ridge route also intrigues me because it includes several challenging features. There’s a small icefall, much smaller than Everest’s Khumbu icefall. Next we’ll ascend a rocky section that will likely be the toughest bit to climb, it may be covered with snow, fingers crossed that it is! The rest of the route ascends a stunning, often narrow ridge to the summit. It’s the ridge that I’m most excited about because, assuming the weather is clear, it will offer incredible views of the Khumbu and Goyko valleys that flank Cholatse.
Over the next few days the team will assemble in Kathmandu where we’ll make our final gear and logistic preparations before we fly to Lukla and begin walking to base camp.
